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Samarcande la mythique | Voyage Asie Centrale et Route de la Soie

Samarcande la mythique

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Samarcande la mythique, symbole de la magie de l'Orient, nom évocateur ayant inspiré des générations de voyageurs et d'écrivains.... désormais incarnation de la puissance et du faste timouride et cœur de la Route de la Soie...
Samarcande est riche d'une histoire de 2500 ans, ce qui en fait l'une des plus ancienne cité au monde; durant ces millénaires, la ville a marqué la vie de nombreuses personnalités historiques d'Alexandre le Grand à Babur (premier des empereurs moghols ayant conquis l'Inde au Xvème siècle) en passant par Ismaïl Samani et Tamerlan contribuant à renforcer les rêves et à faire proliférer les légendes concernant la cité.
Aujourd'hui parée des chefs d'œuvres architecturaux de l'époque timouride, la "ville des coupoles bleues" n'a rien perdu de sa mystique et de sa beauté légendaire. Malgré les grandes artères construites par les soviétiques, l'activité économique désormais développée dans la ville et les environs et les aménagements ayant dégagé des espaces autour des monuments, enlevant un peu de l'aspect authentique et vivant, admirer les splendeurs de Samarcande, flâner sur la colline d'Afrosyab, songer à l'ombre d'une coupole ou admirer le détail d'une mosaïque demeurent des instants inoubliables, empreint de magie

Le Reghistan

Lorsqu’au XIV ème siècle, les habitants descendent d’Afrosyab dévastée par les Mongols, le Reghistan devient le centre de la nouvelle ville. Sous Timur, elle est le point de rencontre des commerçants, artisans.... Sous Ulugh Beg fut construit la grande madrasa qui porte son nom, une mosquée remplacée au XVII ème siècle par la medressa Sher Dor et un caravansérail remplacé par la medressa Tila Kari.
De la place, on observe les façades à gauche de la madrasa d’Ulugh Beg, au porche décoré d’étoiles et à droite lui faisant face, la madrasa Sher Dor, dont les mosaïques représentent des tigres qui courent après des biches, tigres surmontés d’un soleil a tête d’or.
Seule au fond face à la place, la madrasa Tila Kari est la plus belle. Et cela car, si sa cour n’a rien de plus que celle des deux autres madrassas, l’intérieur de la mosquée sur la gauche est richement décorée de motifs floraux, de sourates du Coran et de trompe-l’oeil en faïences bleu et or ; un ensemble de toute beauté. Remarquez également sur le côté, une exposition de photos montrant les bâtiments du Reghistan avant restauration : révélateur...
La place du Reghistan, symbole de Samarcande, incarne la grandeur, la puissance mais aussi la majesté et le sens artistique raffiné de la dynastie timouride.

La Mosquee Bibi Khanum

Cette mosquée construite sous Tamerlan, qui porte le nom de sa femme favorite, était la Mosquée du Vendredi, la grande Mosquée de la capitale de l’Empire. Ce monument a beaucoup souffert du temps, des pillages des persans au XVIIIème siècle et des tremblements de terre. Pourtant la restauration a rendu à l’ensemble un semblant de majesté et le grand dôme bleu reconstruit domine à pressent la ville.
Avant de visiter la grande mosquée, on peut jeter un coup d'œil au petit mausolée en face. Du sommet on a une belle vue sur la ville, la mosquée Bibi Khanum et surtout les mosquées et la nécropole sur la colline d’Afrosyab. L'intérieur du mausolée est également assez beau. Dans la crypte, la tombe du milieu est celle de la femme de Tamerlan, Bibi Khanum.
La grande mosquée proprement dite est dotée d’un immense portail d’entrée flanqué de puissants pylônes. Le tout décoré de mosaïques vertes ou bleues pour les motifs géométriques, blanches pour les sourates du Coran. En entrant, on pénètre dans la cour, grande, arborée, assez sobre. En visitant les trois édifices principaux surmontés de dômes bleus, le contraste est saisissant entre l'intérieur et l'extérieur. Si la façade et les trois grands dômes sont resplendissants de mosaïques et de majoliques, l'intérieur, non restauré, est complètement dépouillé et paraît en ruine. En somme, le mieux est d’observer les détails des façades, assis dans la cour, à l’ombre des muriers blancs.

Le Gour Emir

Le Gour Emir était au départ un mausolée dédié au petit-fils de Tamerlan, héritier de l’empire, Mohammad Sultan, et construit a la fin du XIV ème siècle. Après la mort prématurée de celui-ci en 1403, Tamerlan en fit un sépulcre pour son petit-fils défunt. Deux ans plus tard, Amir Timur mourut à son tour et fut également inhumé dans le Gour Emir. Par la suite le monument est resté le lieu de sépulture de la grande famille des Timourides, notamment Ulugh Beg y fut enterré en 1449.
Pour y pénétrer on passe un premier portail à moitié décoré de majoliques bleues et vertes, à moitié tapissé à la chaux. Le monument en lui-même est un grand bâtiment d’une seule pièce, en brique, décorée de mosaïques aux motifs floraux, surmonté d’un grand dôme bleu et de deux minarets. Le porche central est richement orné, sauf sa partie centrale qui reste blanchie à la chaux.
Au premier abord, l'intérieur paraît quelque peu baroque : les fioritures florales, les cannelés bleu et or et le grand lustre vénitien écrasent. Remarquez les sourates en papier mâché doré de style iranien. Au centre, les tombes. Celle en marbre noir au milieu est celle d’Amir Timur.
La grande tombe à droite, celle de son fils Sharun, la petite à gauche celle d’Ulugh Beg. Et la première en entrant, celle de Mohammad Sultan. Au fond, la tombe solitaire est celle du Cheikh Sayid Umar.

Mausolée Rukhobod

En face du Gour Emir, se situe le mausolée Rukhobod, l’un des plus anciens monuments de Samarcande, construit en 1380 par Tamerlan pour son maître spirituel, le Cheikh Burhariddin Sagarji. Ainsi, Rukhobod signifie « résidence de l’esprit ».
Simple et dénudé, à la fois par son architecture et par la couleur sable de sa façade d’où sont absentes toutes majoliques, le mausolée se trouve au fond d’une cour intérieure où travaillent des artisans dans les anciennes cellules de la khanaka (petite école coranique).
A l’intérieur du bâtiment se trouvent les tombes du Cheikh, de sa femme Bibi Khalfa et de leurs 10 enfants.
L’élément le plus remarquable est sans doute le porte Est, en bois sculpté d’origine, sur laquelle figure le credo musulman « Allah est le Dieu seul et Mahommet est son prophète », ainsi que des phrases de bienvenue à l’adresse des pèlerins venus se recueillir. Malgré ses importantes dimensions caractéristiques de l’architecture timouride, le mausolée Rukhobod est surprenant de sobriété au regard du faste des autres monuments de Samarcande, ce qui renforce son intérêt et sa curiosité.

Mosquée Khazret Khizr ou Mosquée des Voyageurs

Perchée sur la colline d’Afrosyab, cette petite mosquée asymétrique et pleine de charme attire l’oeil par son allure inhabituelle, ses dimensiosn réduites et les couleurs pastelles de son petit minaret. On pénètre à l’intérieur par une entrée à coupole avant d’accéder à l’iwan à colonnades qui offre une vue privilégiée sur la nécropole Shah-i-Zinda et l’ensemble de la ville. La finesse des peintures du plafond, des sculptures des portes de bois et des détails muraux y sont également remarquables. La salle de prière encore en fonction n’est pas accessible aux visiteurs. Cette partie date de 1854, le portail ayant été ajouté en 1919.
Cette mosquée a été édifiée en l’honneur du Saint patron des voyageurs et des eaux souterraines, Elie. A l’extérieur se trouve d’ailleurs un puits de 40 mètres. Le site est considéré comme un lieu saint depuis l’époque pré islamique et de nombreux lieux de cultes se sont succédés à cet emplacement.

Mausolée Ishrat Khana

A l’écart du centre-ville, loin de l’éclat des coupoles bleu vif du Registan, de Bibi Khanum et du Gour Emir se trouvent les ruines du Mausolée Ishrat Khana. Situées entre fermes et jardins, elles offrent le plaisir d’une découverte inattendue à la recherche des rares détails ayant survécu aux années.
Aucun travaux de restauration n’ayant été effectués sur ce mausolée du XVème, on y ressent l’émotion propre aux lieux oubliés et mystérieux portant les marques du temps.
Construit par Khabibi Sultan Beghim, femme du Sultan Abu Sayin, il abrite des femmes et des enfants de la dynastie timouride dans une crypte souterraine. Autrefois orné de somptueuses mosaïques aux riches motifs, son nom signifie « maison de la joie ».
Le dôme s’est écroulé suite aux tremblements de terre de 1897 et 1903 mais la porte centrale, pourtant surdimensionnée y a étonnement bien résisté.

Shah-i-Zinda

D’abord, un majestueux portail d’entrée le pishtak, surmonté d’une coupole bleue soutenue par quatre arches, si typique de Samarcande, encadré d’une mosquée et d’une madrasa assez simples. Suit une volée d’escaliers menant à une haute porte. Jusqu’au dernier instant, rien ne laisse deviner le véritable aspect de la nécropole... Une véritable rue bordée de sublimes mausolées permettant une découverte des styles architecturaux et des techniques d’ornement du XIème au XVème siècle. La surprise n’est que plus fascinante.
La nécropole Shah-i-Zinda, « du Roi vivant » est une ruelle qui grimpe vers la colline d’Afrosyab et menait autrefois aux portes de la ville antique. Au XIème siècle, le premier mausolée y fut construit, celui de Qassim-ibn Abbas, un missionaire arrivé lors des conquêtes arabes et fut par la suite épargné par miracle lors de la prise de la ville par les Mongols. Au XIème et XII ème, de nombreux mausolées et tombes furent construits à cet emplacement considérés comme sacré par les religions successives, zoroastrisme, manichééisme, nestorianisme , Islam. Puis , à l’époque timouride les familles nobles et les membres de la famille de Tamerlan se firent enterer près du tombeau de Qassim-ibn Abbas cherchant la protection du Saint pour leur vie dans l’au-delà.
Ce syncrétisme de croyances a donné à la rue son aspect actuel où se mêlent les mausolées les plus simples , les plus raffinées ,les plus grandioses , les majoliques florales et les simples murs blancs, les coupoles arrondies et les portails imposants formant un ensemble architectural sublime.