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Khiva, ville musée | Voyage Asie Centrale et Route de la Soie

Khiva, ville musée

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Petite ville nichée depuis le IVème siècle sur une oasis au milieu du désert de Khorezm, Khiva a toujours été au centre des vagues de conquêtes venues de tous horizons : perses, arabes, mongols, ouzbeks, russes…. La ville connut son heure de gloire entre le XVIème siècle et 1873, époque à laquelle elle était la capitale du khanat de Khiva, l’une des trois puissances d’Asie Centrale, rivale de Boukhara et de Kokand. De tous temps, la ville fut un important centre religieux de l’Islam et une ville-étape sur la Route de la Soie. A partir de 1873 elle fut sous la domination des russes et après la Révolution d’Octobre, de l’Union Soviétique. Ceux-ci ont fait beaucoup pour la renaissance de la ville, en grande partie détruite. En effet, tous les monuments remarquables ont été reconstruit, et en 1968, Khiva devint une ville musée. Cette marque est toujours bien présente aujourd’hui et permet ce cachet propre à Khiva : un espace de théâtre où tout est beau mais irréel car neuf et resplendissant.
La ville se divise en deux parties : Dichan Kala, la partie extérieure et Ichan Kala, la partie comprise à l’intérieur de la grande enceinte de pierre, qui est la plus intéressante. Cette minuscule cité dans la cité comprend sur un périmètre de seulement 1 km², un nombre impressionnant de curiosités. La ligne de muraille en terre séchée et en briques crues vaut à elle seule le détour, tant elle est impressionnante et amusante à la fois, ressemblant à un château de sable au milieu du désert. Les portes de l’Ouest, entrée principale de la ville et bien souvent point de départ de la visite sont particulièrement remarquables. Parmi les nombreuses curiosités de la ville, il faut s’arrêter notamment sur le palais royal, la
grande Mosquée, le « Minaret court » et l’ensemble que constituent les madrasas.

Kounia Ark
Tel est le nom du palais royal. On y accède depuis la place Centrale où se tenaient à l’époque du khanat les parades et exercices militaires. Il existe un palais sur ce site depuis le Vème siècle, et plusieurs édifices y furent construits, détruits et remplacés. La plus ancienne composante de l’édifice actuel est la grande tour de terre séchée Ak Sheik Bobo d’où on a une belle vue sur Ichan Kala. Le reste date du début du XIXème siècle. La première et la plus grande cour que l’on traverse après avoir franchi la porte est en cours de restauration : autrefois ce grand emplacement vide se divisait en différentes cours et antichambres aujourd’hui disparues. On visite d’abord la Monnaie, lieu où étaient frappées les pièces du khanat qui est aujourd’hui un petit musée, puis la salle du trône, une longue pièce vide aux hauts plafonds. Juste à côté, on admire la mosquée d’été, percée d’un grand iwan à six colonnes orné de majoliques bleues et vertes particulièrement superbes.
On arrive ensuite dans l’iwan, grande niche que supportent deux colonnes de bois, qui est décorée de superbes motifs en majoliques bleues et vertes. En total contraste avec ce décor de couleurs froides, le plafond est tout en jaune et rouge car il représente des symboles en rapports avec le soleil et le feu, réminiscences des croyances zoroastriennes. Remarquez au milieu de la cour qui abrite l’iwan un grand cercle de pierre surélevé. Ici se trouvait la yourte dans laquelle le khan recevait ses hôtes….

Le « Minaret Court »
Il a souvent été considéré comme le symbole de Khiva de par son aspect exceptionnellement unique et original. En effet, s’il mesure finalement 26 mètres de hauteur et paraît tronqué et inachevé, ce devait être au départ le plus grand et le plus beau minaret du monde s’élevant à 70 mètres de hauteur. A l’époque de la lutte entre le khanat de Khiva et celui de Boukhara, ce grand minaret, magnifique et orné de majoliques bleues et vertes devait être l’expression de la supériorité de Khiva, ce que le khan de Boukhara ne pouvait supporter. Celui-ci voulut enlever l’architecte qui pour sauver sa vie dû s’enfuir en laissant sa grande œuvre inachevée.

Juma Masjid
La grande Mosquée du Vendredi est très sobre de l’extérieur, si l’on excepte son grand minaret en pierre haut de 33 mètres. L’intérieur est exceptionnelle, de par son originalité, c’est l’une des seules mosquées entièrement en bois encore debout dans toute l’Asie Centrale, et de par sa beauté, un ensemble magnifique de colonnes en bois sculpté qui semble au premier regard homogène. Finalement, si on y regarde de plus près, chaque colonne a son histoire, du grand et vieux madrier de bois datant du XIème siècle orné d’inscriptions en koufi à la fine colonne richement ciselée, œuvre des ébéniste contemporains, toutes les époques sont représentées, pour qui sait être attentif.

Les madrasas
Khiva qui était un grand centre de pèlerinage et d’apprentissage religieux comprend un nombre impressionnant d’anciennes madrasas c’est-à-dire d’écoles coraniques, aujourd’hui pour la plupart reconverties en petits musées de fortune, en hôtels ou restaurants. Les
collections exposées étant souvent médiocres, leur intérêt principal est l’architecture de l’édifice. Elles son presque toutes semblables et le visiteur écumant les madrasas de la ville éprouvera bien souvent une impression de « déjà vu ». On y pénètre la plupart du temps par
un porche monumental, en brique, qui est décoré de majoliques pour les plus belles, sobre pour les autres. L’intérieur est toujours une grande cour composée d’un à deux étages d’arches en briques qui abritent les salles de classe et les cellules des étudiants. Il est rare de
pouvoir pénétrer dans ces salles si elles ne sont pas transformées en boutiques, et il faut savoir que ce privilège est souvent réservé aux madrasas les moins touristiques. Les madrasas les plus connus et donc souvent les plus belles sont celle d’Islam Khodja, remarquable
notamment pour son magnifique minaret décoré de cercles concentriques en mosaïque, l’immense Kosh Madrasa, ou la Madrasa Mohammed Amin Khan à côté du Minaret Court.