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Boukhara, la perle de l’Islam | Voyage Asie Centrale et Route de la Soie

Boukhara, la perle de l’Islam

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Après Samarcande, Boukhara est la seconde ville qui fait l’imagination des voyageurs venus en Ouzbékistan sur les traces de la fameuse « route de la soie ». Ville étape de tout premier ordre sur le trajet des caravanes, ville religieuse surnommée au XIIème siècle « la perle de l’Islam », on venait ici des quatre coins du monde musulman pour y commercer ou admirer les mosquées et les minarets, ou recevoir dans un madrasa, l’enseignement d’un grand sage résidant dans cette cité. Ville oasis au milieu du désert de Kyzyl Kum, Boukhara se situe à mi-chemin entre La petite Khiva, ville-musée et la monumentale Samarcande, qui manque de petites ruelles animées où flâner entre deux merveilles. Pour cette raison, c’est à Boukhara qu’il est le plus agréable de s’attarder, car celle-ci possède également des mosquées et medressas monumentales, mais entourées d’une vieille ville authentique, vivante et tortueuse au charme éminemment oriental. Il fait bon se promener, au bord du bassin Liab-IKhaouz ou entre les coupoles du centre-ville, le seul d’Ouzbékistan qui soit d’époque, et par conséquent de loin le plus charmant …

Liab-I-Khaouz
C’est le coeur battant de la ville de Boukhara, le lieu où se mêlent touristes empressés et ouzbeks jouant aux dominos. C’est ce lieu qui fait l’originalité et le charme de la ville, lui confère une ambiance plus conviviale que notamment Samarcande. Il fait donc bon se reposer ici, en ce lieu rafraîchi par l’eau du bassin, boire un verre ou manger une spécialité ouzbèke dans l’un des nombreux cafés ou tchaïkhana qui borde celui-ci. Remarquez aux abords du bassin, devant la belle madrassa Nadir Divanbeg, remarquable par les magnifiques décorations de son portail, la statue de Khodja Nasreddin, sur son âne, héros de beaucoup de fables musulmanes d’allure simples mais cachant une morale. Au nord de la place, remarquez également la madrassa Koukeldash, la plus impressionnante et la plus grande de la ville avec ses 80 mètres sur 60.

Les coupoles
Une autre originalité de Boukhara qu’on ne retrouve nulle part ailleurs en Asie Centrale : elle possède encore intactes datant du XVIème siècle, les coupoles de commerce, lieux d’exposition et de vente de marchandises. Ces constructions massives aux bulbes insolites possèdent de grandes entrées ogivales où pouvait passer même un chameau. La fraîcheur créée par cette architecture originale incitait les flâneurs à venir y regarder les échoppes…argument de vente qui fonctionne toujours de nos jours…. En plein cœur du centre-ville, les trois coupoles restantes sont de véritables nœuds de communication entre les différentes attractions de la ville.
La première en venant du Liab-I-Khaouz est la « Tak_I-Sarrafan » ou « coupoles des changeurs » car elle abritait les commerçants juifs, changeurs de monnaie. S’il n’y a plus de changeurs dans cette coupole-ci, les deux autres ont gardé leur fonction originelle : on trouve une belle collection de chapeaux dans la « coupole des chapeliers », mais par contre une médiocre collection de bijoux dans la « coupole des joailliers ».

L’ensemble Poy Kalon
C’est la place la plus grande et la plus monumentale de la ville. Face à la grande mosquée Kalon et à son imposant minaret se dresse la madrasa Mir-I-Arab, construite en 1535 et toujours en activité, très réputée dans les milieux de l’enseignement coranique.
Le minaret est particulièrement remarquable, d’abord de par son grand âge : construit en 1127, il est parmi les très rares monuments ayant survécus aux destructions de Gengis Khan en Asie Centrale. A Boukhara, il est même le seul survivant des ravages mongols car le minaret avait d’autres fonctions que celle d’appeler les fidèles à la prière : il servait notamment de phare pour les caravanes la nuit et de tour d’exécution d’où l'on jetait les condamnés… Haut de 48 mètres, de forme conique, il est décoré d’anneaux en briques cuites aux motifs géométriques. Depuis longtemps ce joyau, puissant et raffiné, est le symbole de Boukhara, représenté sur toutes les cartes postales ; et bien évidemment c’est de son sommet que la vue la plus imprenable sur la ville. La mosquée du même nom, juste à côté, ne dépare ni en grandeur ni en splendeur. Construite et reconstruite à plusieurs reprises, après un tremblement de terre ou le passage de Gengis, l’ensemble actuel date du XVIème siècle et mesure 130 mètres sur 80. La cour intérieure est immense, les galeries qui l’entourent surmontées de 288 coupoles. Au fond de la cour, presque en arrivant dans la salle de la mosquée proprement dite, contenant le mihrab et le minbar, se trouve un puit octogonal à l’ombre d’un gros arbre, puit censé contenir de l’eau sainte que les pèlerins viennent boire. Un ensemble mêlant grandeur et raffinement, puissantes colonnes, cours chaleureuses, portails imposants et coupoles arrondies dans une atmosphère chargée d'histoire et de croyance.

Forteresse de l’Emir
Avec ses imposantes murailles crénelées et sa puissante porte flanquée de deux tourelles, la forteresse de l'Emir incarne le pouvoir des seigneurs de Boukhara et symbolise l'interdiction et le crainte... Perchée sur ce qui semble être une colline de 20 mètres de hauteur, elle repose en réalité sur ses propres ayant été reconstruite au même emplacement après les attaques successives, des mongols aux russes mais a retrouvé aujourd'hui son aspect originel grâce aux travaux de restauration. En pénétrant à l'intérieur, on passe devant les prisons de l'Emir, de petites cages à l'espace incroyablement réduit, dont peu de prisonniers sont ressortis et qui effrayé autant qu'elles ont stimulé l'imaginaire des voyageurs occidentaux... On accède ensuite aux remparts depuis lesquels on peut observer l'incroyable extension de la ville moderne de Boukhara, pôle économique très important du pays. L'intérieur de la forteresse n'ayant pas été restauré, l'ensemble donne une étrange impression de désordre au milieu duquel se glissent quelques vestiges intéressants, dont une petite mosquée ouverte, à l'iwan aux colonnes de bois et la salle du trône , vaste pièce ouverte et dénudée dans laquelle subsistent quelques colonnes ainsi que des plafonds de bois sculpté, aux motifs sobres mais très raffinés. L'autre côté des remparts offre une vue imprenable sur le cœur historique, notamment sur l'ensemble Poy Kalon.
Dans d'anciennes pièces à vivre des khans sont désormais présentés deux petits musées, dont un propose une exposition sur l'histoire de la ville de Boukhara assez bien réalisée et enrichie d'objets trouvés sur les sites, notamment dans la forteresse. Le second, plus médiocre, expose des objets, livres, tableaux divers et objets ayant appartenu aux khans qui en sont pas suffisamment mis en valeur.

Parc Samani
A l’entrée du parc, après la mosquée Bobo-Khaouz, remarquez les deux madrasas, faussement jumelles de Modar-I-Khan, la plus petite, et Abdullah Khan, la plus grande. La visite de cette dernière est originale : on peut s’y promener dans le labyrinthe des cellules à moitié en ruine.
Le parc en lui-même est un lieu agréable, fleuri et ombragé. Il comporte surtout quelques curiosités.
La principale est le mausolée d’Ismaïl Samani, surnommé « la perle de l’Orient ». Ce tombeau de brique datant de plus de mille ans est un petit édifice élégant, carré, surmonté d’un dôme semi-circulaire. La grande tombe à l’intérieur est celle d’Ismaïl Samani, fondateur de la dynastie des Samanides, époque où Boukhara était la capitale d’un empire rayonnant dans toute l’Asie Centrale.
Non loin, un bâtiment en brique à l’allure étrange, surmonté d’un cône, serait la tombe de Job, datant du XIVème siècle. Tout au fond du parc, après un bassin ensoleillé, on peut jeter un coup d'œil à ce qu’il reste des murailles de Boukhara, un ensemble assez décevant.