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Och, ville millénaire et étape importante de la route de la soie | Voyage Asie Centrale et Route de la Soie

Och, ville millénaire et étape importante de la route de la soie

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Deuxième ville du Kirghizistan,capitale de la province du même nom, Och est un gros village de 300 000 habitants situé dans l'une des rares plaines du pays. Ville millénaire, étape importante de la route de la soie, elle a été quelque peu délaissée durant la période soviétique et ne comporte pas de traces d’industrialisation. Située au cœur de la vallée du Ferghana, Och est essentiellement peuplée par des Ouzbeks révélant le découpage arbitraire des frontières en Asie Centrale.

Si Och n'offre pas de curiosités particulières à visiter, elle est une ville très agréable et un bon point de départ pour des treks a pied ou à cheval dans le sud du pays et un point de passage obligatoire pour se rendre dans de nombreuses régions.
La plupart des bâtiments n’y dépassent pas deux étages, permettant une vue sur les montagnes et les steppes proches. Les nombreux espaces verts , les tchaïkanas ( ‘’maisons de the’’ où l’on peut déguster boissons et plats locaux sur de plaisantes terrasses), le bazar animé et le Suleiman Too qui domine la ville en font une étape plaisante.

Au coeur de la ville qui s’étend à ses pieds, le Suleiman Too est une charmante colline propice aux promenades offrant une vue panoramique sur Och et la nature environnante. Son nom, signifiant trône de Salomon, découle d’une légende selon laquelle le roi-prophète y avait fait étape et prié au XVIème siècle, en faisant un des lieu les plus saints d’Asie Centrale, parfois même surnommé ‘’la petite Mecque’’ pour la plus grande fierté des habitants d' Och.

Au sommet se trouve la Dom Babura (maison de Babur), une minuscule mosquée qui fait la fierté des habitants de Och, car il s’agissait du lieu de prière du premier empereur moghol ayant conquit l'Inde au XVème siecle, lorsqu'il résidait à Och.

En contrebas se trouve un cimetière musulman, placé selon la coutume, sur le flanc d'une colline. De l’autre côté , une petite mosquée très ancienne mais reconstruite durant la période soviétique possède une architecture rappelant étrangement celle d’une église Byzantine…

Étant en fonction, elle n’est pas accessible aux femmes et les hommes non musulmans ont besoin d’une invitation d’un des fidèles à entrer pour pouvoir la visiter. Au cœur de la colline se trouve un musée régional d’un intérêt très limité. Le principal attrait du Suleiman Too réside dans la vue qu’il offre et ses petits sentiers verdoyants permettant une évasion au cœur même de la ville et l’observation d’une vie locale animée.

Au Nord de la ville, le Jayma Bazaar a lieu chaque jour et s’anime particulièrement le dimanche. Les artisans et paysans des environs y vendent leurs produits dans une ambiance colorée. Une partie du bazaar, à ciel ouvert, est consacrée a l’alimentation, fruits, légumes, lipioshka (pain traditionnel), viande de mouton, samsas ( petits pains fourrés a la viande et aux oignons), gâteaux secs…Sous les petites halles, vous trouverez essentiellement des vêtements, chaussures, tapis et quelques confections d’artisanat traditionnel. Négociation de rigueur!