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Lac Issyk-Kul | Voyage Asie Centrale et Route de la Soie

Lac Issyk-Kul

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Issik Kul signifie lac chaud, car bien que situé à 1600 mètres au-dessus du niveau de la mer, il ne gèle jamais. L’Issik Kul est un lac immense de 170km de longueur et de70 km de largeur entouré de chaînes de montagnes dont les cimes enneigées culminent a 4000m. Interdit aux étrangers jusqu’à la chute de l’URSS, le lac est aujourd’hui le lieu de tourisme par excellence en Kirghizie.
La rive Nord, la plus urbanisée, est essentiellement un lieu de villégiature, la principale station balnéaire y étant Cholpon-Ata. On y vient l’été se baigner, faire bronzette ou des jeux de plage. La rive Sud est plus sauvage , et se prête donc plus à des voyages de type randonnée équestre ou pédestre, nuit sous la yourte.. A l’extrême est du lac, les environs de Karakol sont particulièrement réputés pour les trekkeurs.

Karakol
A la pointe Est du lac Issik-Kul, Karakol, la quatrième ville du pays, est en fait un gros village aux accents russes très prononcés où se côtoient quelques anciens bâtiments soviétiques et de nombreuses maisonnettes sibériennes charmantes.
Lieu de villégiature très apprécié durant l’URSS et encore aujourd’hui très fréquenté par une clientèle russe et kazakhe, Karakol ne possède pqs de charme particulier mais offre de très belles possibilités de treks ou de randonnées à la journée dans les environs, notamment à Atyn Arachan et Jeti Oguz.

Altyn-Ararchan
Depuis le village d’Arsu, proche de Karakol, une randonnée de quatre à cinq heures conduit à la vallée d’Altyn Arachan.
Paysages alpins, forêts de résineux, sommets enneigés et ruisseaux bordent le sentier emprunté par de nombreux troupeaux de vaches, moutons ou chevaux. La douceur des alpages verdoyants s’oppose à la brutalité des pics accidentés formant un contraste saisissant. Dans la vallée, coule une source chaude riche en souffre et en minéraux vertueux ; bienvenue après une journée de trek. La vallée d’Altyn Arachan, entrecoupée de ruisseaux et bordée de flancs abrupts et sapineux offre de nouvelles possibilités de randonnée à la journée ou de treks à cheval. La vallée en fleurs et les douces températures font de la fin du printemps la meilleure saison pour s’y rendre.

Tamga
A mi-chemin entre Balykchy et Karakol, sur la rive sauvage du Sud de l’Issik-Kul, Tamga est un bon point de départ pour explorer la nature environnante.
Petit village coloré et charmant aux accents plus sibériens que kirghizes avec ses maisonnettes en bois peint de couleurs froides, Tamga s’entoure de champs cultivés, de fermes arborées et parfumées par les fleurs de noyers, d’étendues naturelles permettant un accès direct aux contreforts des Tian Shan, sans oublier la vue sur le lac proche.

Barsköon
Depuis Tamga, il est possible d’organiser une excursion vers Barsköon, dernière vallée avant les Tian Shan.
La vallée verte où paissent les troupeaux est encadrée par les pics glacés et les pentes couvertes de sapins. Dans ce décor alpin s'épanouissent trois chutes d'eau particulièrement impressionnantes au printemps lorsque des filets d’eau s’écoulent derrière les cascades encore gelées. Une des chutes est accessible à pied et les plus courageux pourront s’y rafraîchir en été... Les deux autres, plus spectaculaires, ne peuvent être admirées qu’à distance. Outre cette attraction, Barsköon permet d’agréables randonnées d’une journée.

Bokonbaïeva
D’un côté le lac, aux teintes dégradées bleu ciel, marine, turquoise. Sur la berge, quelques chevaux se prélassent au soleil. Au Nord, sur l’autre rive, les reliefs harmonieux et les sommets enneigés de la chaîne Alatau sont révélés par le temps clair, fendant le ciel de leur apparition surréaliste. Face au lac, s’épanouit un paysage alpin. Vallons verdoyants, fôrets de résineux, troupeaux abondants... En arrière-plan, les monts Tian Shan laissent deviner leur silhouette accidentée.
Soudainement, en l’espace de quelques kilomètres, les collines arborées laissent place à des dunes rougeoyantes brûlées par le soleil, les alpages s’effacent devant le désert. Un cimetière musulman dont les dômes réfléchissent des rayons aveuglants complète ce tableau irréel dans lequel fait parfois irruption un berger aux allures de bédouin suivis d’un incroyable troupeau dont les bêlements troublent quelques instants le silence de ce lieu magique. Enclavé entre les Tian Shan, l’Alatau et l’Issik Kul, ce petit apperçu des Pamir est d’autant plus surprenant et enchanteur.
Si le village de Bokonbaïeva ne présente en lui-même pas d'originalité ou de curiosités particulières, si ce n’est quelques charmantes maisons blanches aux toits et volets de bois peints en bleu ou vert, ses environs offrent une diversité de paysages exceptionnelle et déroutante.