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Almaty, ancienne capitale et ville culturelle | Voyage Asie Centrale et Route de la Soie

Almaty, ancienne capitale et ville culturelle

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Zenkov church - Almaty - ChurchVille de deux millions d’habitants, Almaty est l’ancienne capitale et le premier pôle économique du Kazakhstan. Ce statut lui donne des airs de métropole dynamique, fourmillant de bars et de boutiques de luxe, mais dans une effervescence moins pressée que dans les grandes capitales politiques. L’ambiance y est même étonnamment décontractée dans les parcs ou à l’ombre des grandes avenues, ce qui en fait une halte agréable pour quelques temps. De plus, la vie culturelle est assez intense : musées, concerts, théâtres, ballets...

Le Parc Panfilov et la Cathédrale Zenkov
Au cœur de la ville, le parc Panfilov est un lieu de détente et d’animation incontournable. Agréablement planté, il est un rendez-vous apprécié de tous. C’est également ici que se déroulent les principales manifestations, notamment la célébration du 9 mai, lors de laquelle la victoire de l’URSS sur le fascisme est commémorée devant l’imposant monument aux morts de style incontestablement soviétique...
Dominant la place la plus animée du parc, semblant sortie d’un conte de fées avec ses façades jaunes et ses bulbes aux couleurs pétillantes, la Cathédrale Zenkov est l’un des plus beaux et des plus anciens monuments d’Almaty, l’un des rares au Kazakhstan datant de la période tsariste. Édifiée en 1904, entièrement en bois sans l’aide du moindre clou, l’harmonieuse cathédrale a été reconvertie en salle de concert durant la période soviétique et rendue au culte orthodoxe après l’indépendance. L’intérieur du bâtiment est assez simple malgré la profusion d’icônes et possède de jolis vitraux.
De l’autre côté du parc se trouve également le Musée des Instruments de musique, dans un très joli bâtiment de bois abritant une collection riche et originale d’instruments traditionnels.

Parc Central (ou Parc Gorki)
Moins central et un peu moins animé que le Parc Panfilov, le Parc Gorki offre cependant des possibilités de promenade plus longues à l’ombre des grands platanes du fait de sa surface appréciable au cœur de la ville. On y observe une végétation très variée dans laquelle se dissimulent discrètement quelques lieux de distraction tels des cafés ou un cinéma. Un lieu où il fait bon vivre, avec les monts Alatau en fond de toile!

Le Musée des Beaux-Arts
Offrant un bel aperçu de l'art kazakh, le musée des Beaux-Arts d' Almaty présente de jolies collections et dispose d'une présentation claire et d'explications en anglais. Au premier étage, sont exposées des collections assez intéressantes d'art traditionnel : bijoux, tapis, toiles brodées en feutres, ornements pour les chevaux ainsi que quelques tableaux contemporains. Suivent des salles de peinture kazakhe, classée par période de dix ans, où sont présentées essentiellement des œuvres datant de la période soviétique. Les sujets les plus représentés sont alors la vie dans les champs, les fêtes dans les kolkhozes , mêlant tradition nomade et communisme (tout le monde se retrouve sous la yourte sur laquelle est planté le drapeau rouge flanqué de la faucille et du marteau...), le soin des chevaux... Une salle est également consacrée aux toiles un peu plus anciennes (fin XIXème/début XXème, période de la domination tsariste). Le deuxième étage présente essentiellement des collections d'art russe du XVIIIème à nos jours , avec quelques tableaux remarquables de l'avant-garde soviétique ainsi que quelques pièces plus anciennes , notamment des icônes orthodoxes peintes sur bois et des objets métalliques sculptés datant du XIVème au XVIIème.
Également quelques œuvres européennes (notamment des écoles italiennes, françaises et flamandes) ainsi que des copies d'œuvres célèbres assez peu réussies. Un ensemble intéressant, avec parfois des expositions temporaires sur des peintres russes réputés.

Grand Musée d'Etat
Les explications ne sont qu'en kazakh et en russe, ce qui ne facilite pas la compréhension. La première partie consacrée à la Préhistoire présente quelques fossiles de dinosaures ou de mollusques, et en particulier les découvertes géologiques faites au Kazakhstan. Suit une salle consacrée à l'Homme préhistorique : une frise de l'évolution, des silexs, ossements, quelques parures et reliefs de poteries. La salle suivante expose quelques souvenirs d'une période obscure d'environ quinze siècles, englobant l'antiquité et le Moyen-Age : poteries, statues, armes...maigres reflets d'une très longue mais méconnue période de nomadisme et de khanats aux noms changeants. En haut d'un petit escalier, d'intéressantes reconstructions de poteries et de tours de potiers datant des X-XIIème siècles.
En redescendant, on peut admirer une collection d'objets d'art retrouvés dans la vieille cité de Turkestan : céramiques, faïences, services à thé, ainsi qu'une reproduction du mausolée d'Adji Ahmed Iassili.
Au deuxième étage, une immense salle présente l'histoire de la République du Kazakhstan depuis l'indépendance : son président Nursultan Nazerbaev, ses gloires, ses ressources, ses relations diplomatiques... Et en face une belle collection de vêtements et objets traditionnels de la diaspora kazakhe de par le monde.

Photos :flickr.com/irene2005 / CC BY 2.0